Volume I Number 6: September 1, 2004

OUR FIRST CASUALTY! SCHOOLS IN SESSION! OFFICIAL VOLUNTEERS!

Hello Everyone,

We’re still keeping afloat in Hayastan (Armenia in Armenian). The last couple weeks have treated us well. We have been able to get settled into Alaverdi and have been able to establish a somewhat reliable routine. The days and nights are still hot and humid with another couple months to go before the cool weather arrives. We’re taking advantage of the cool mornings to begin our hikes and take our semi-daily runs.

We went through the Peace Corps swearing in ceremony on August 23 in Yerevan. The Peace Corps picked out one of the nicer hotels for the occasion due to the high profile people that would be in attendance. Now, we were told that the media was aware of this occasion and that some would attend but there ended up being 12 video cameras, and at least 20 photographers. That is a lot of coverage for one event. The media were like flies zooming all over the room capturing every moment, the volunteer and guests expressions throughout the ceremony. They were particularly interested in our minority and female population as they took nice long shots of them. Later on we were told that Laura made the Armenian news. We had the U.S. Ambassador, Minister of Foreign Affairs, and a few other Armenian Ministers speak to the group. The U.S. Ambassador and Minister of Foreign Affairs were very excellent speakers and quite inspirational. The Minister of Foreign Affairs is an equivalent to a Colin Powell so he is high up the food chain in the Armenian Government. It was nice to see the support from the Armenian Government so that we know our work is being recognized from the top brass to the locals we work with everyday. The ceremony was suit and tie attire, lasted one hour, had a few volunteers do speeches in Armenian and was a really good time.

We lost one. We are mourning the loss of our first casualty but know that there they may be more, though we hope not. We left our digital camera on a bus and haven’t seen it since. In our hastiness to get our luggage off the bus and moved up to our apartment we forgot it next to us on the seat. We’re bummed but we shall adapt, overcome, and have more photos for you in the future, hopefully the near future but no bets on that. Until that point, please enjoy pictures that we have taken while living in Dilijan.

We had quite the passenger riding with us when we left Yerevan the last time. We were finished with the swearing in ceremony and leaving Yerevan to get back to Alaverdi. The weather was very hot (mid 90ís), your clothes were sticking to you, and we were beginning our 3.5 hour journey on our marshutni (like a mini van but it seats 12 to 15 people). We picked up an older woman about 15 minutes out of the city who right from the get go was a bit obnoxious. She was dressed with pants, long sleeves, full make up, and was being a bit pushy on how her bags need to be handled carefully. She takes her seat in the middle of the aisle on a pull out chair. Our marshutni was packed. As we drive off the wind picks up and blows through the opened windows. She begins to tell people to close the windows because her hair is getting messed up. Are you kidding me? She isn’t quiet about this too. The passengers tell her she’s crazy, that she should deal with it, and that it’s too hot to put the windows up. The lady wouldn’t let up and for a few minutes gave everyone a laugh though she was bit pissed off. She complained a few more times over the next half hour this time adding that she was going to get a cold from the windows being opened. The hot wind was going to make her sick??? This lady was crazy. No one budged. They told her to move her seat up to the front so that there was less wind. She finally budged and was quiet until we dropped her off an hour later. Rather then having the marshutni driver drop her off on the main road (where all passengers are dropped off) she wanted to be taken to the center of town. The passengers and driver all gave her a piece of their mind because we wanted to stick to the main road so we could get home sooner. She kept arguing, the driver charged her 900 drams instead of 1000 drams so she could catch a local ride for 100 drams, and as we drove off she continued to complain through our windows. When we had finally left her behind the passengers exploded into laughter at the absurdity of this woman. It was amusing.

Things from the junk drawer:

  • Many villagers use brooms that are made from a tree. They find a nice straight limb, saw it off the tree, strip off the bark, a little sanding, and you have a great looking broom handle. They also use some dried thin branches for the broom. For some reason, many of the handles made are only a couple feet tall so you see a lot of women bending over to sweep. We don’t understand why they just don’t go for the extra couple feet when choosing a limb.
  • We have been noticing a lot of road work going on and the lack of safety standards. We have yet to see a worker wear a hardhat, gloves, eye protection, or hearing protection. We would think the jackhammer operator would appreciate a good set of ear plugs but nothing yet.
  • Reliable garbage pick up service isn’t available so the locals take matters into their own hands, as Laura
    found out. The locals dump a little gas on the pile, strike a match, and let ‘er burn, baby, burn. Nothing like the smell of burnt plastic and other unidentifiable objects in the morning to wake you up.
  • The English language that has been taught in Armenia is British English
  • With one 5 gallon bucket of hot water we can both take a hot shower and feel refreshed. It’s all in the pour and the proper collection basin.
  • Laura has been able to maintain her weight while in Armenia. Brett is down 10 pounds at 185 lbs. The Peace Corps diet is really wonderful. Eat until full, stick to 3 meals a day, no snacks, lots of fresh produce, very little meat, walk a ton, indulge on chocolate every couple of days, and every month or so have a diarrhea or vomit episode to remind you that you are still in a developing country.
  • The end of our service with Peace Corps Armenia will be in mid-July 2006, in case anyone cared to know. Itís only 23 months service for Volunteers in Armenia.
  • Why is Eminem, the rap artist, so freaking popular around here? We can’t understand it. Our mission has now been revealed to us: More U2, Beatles, and punk, less Eminem for the Armenians.

Armenian (Hayarin) words and phrases (transliteration, of course):

Now you can continue to impress your friends with your Armenian language skills! Oh yeah! We’re kind of bummed that outside of Armenia we won’t be using the language. Even the Armenians outside of Armenia speak
Western Armenian, not Eastern Armenian.

  • I = yesz
  • You (singular, informal) = doo
  • He/she/it = na
  • We = menk
  • You (plural, formal) = dook
  • They = nrank
  • We are from America. = Menk Amerika-yets enk:
  • My name is Laura. = Em anoona Laura a:
  • I am a Volunteer with Peace Corps. = Yes kamavor em khaghaghootyan korpuse het:
  • I am an English teacher. = Yes unglarin oosootech em:
  • I am an Environmental teacher. = Yes bnapahpanakan oosootech em:
  • We have lived in California and Oregon. = Menk aprel enk California yev Oregon-oom:
  • I have worked as a wildland firefighter. = Yes ashkatel em antar hrshej:
  • Yes = Ha/i-yo
  • No = Chaa/Vooch

The first day of school has come and gone and we’ve decided we’re still going to stick it out. September 1 felt as if this is what the Peace Corps experience is all about. You are walking to school along a dirt, semi-paved road, no other Americans with you, prepared to teach and help the locals as well as learn from them, in a foreign country where you still don’t have a grasp of the language. This is where it all begins to come together.

September 1 is the first day of school for everyone in Armenia and much of the former Soviet Union. Students and teachers wear their best outfits and parents accompany the children to school. The children all gather in the main courtyard and form into their groups by the grades they are in. The school director will welcome everyone and say some other things we don’t quite understand. If you’re really lucky, such as Laura, then you will be asked on the spot to say a few words, in English, to the 700 students, parents, and teachers listening intently. After the speeches are done everyone files into the school and goes into their respective classrooms.

The first day, as well as the rest of the week, is chaotic. A class schedule isn’t set up yet so most of the time the teachers, as well us, hang out in the teacher’s lounge. At Brett’s school he spent all of his time in the lounge since his counterpart was off doing other things. Laura had the opportunity to visit the classrooms with her counterpart to announce the upcoming English Clubs that she would be having. Brett still hasn’t been introduced to any of the teachers or children by his counterpart or director. He has taken the time to introduce himself which isn’t always an easy task when you are speaking Armenian. Laura’s counterpart and director have introduced her to many teachers and students because they are pretty excited to have her. Brett saw his counterpart for 1 minute out of the 3 hours he was at the school last Thursday. Do you get the point? It is going to make for an interesting working relationship.

We appreciate everyone for taking the time to read another email. We have included a set of photos from when we were living in Dilijan. They are photos of the walk we took to school 4 days a week. All of the sites in the photos became very familiar to us while living in Dilijan and many are still familiar to us while living in Alaverdi. There isn’t a lot of change in the rural areas of Armenia. We hope that you are all in good spirits and health and that life is taking you in the direction you have chosen. We look forward to hearing back from you!

Sincerely your friends, family, buddies, pals, whatever you call us,

Laura and Brett

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